In the heart of India’s bustling cities and nestled in its quieter corners, the Indian Coffee House chain brews not just coffee but a rich tapestry of history, culture, and social revolution. Run by a series of worker co-operative societies, this iconic establishment has nearly 400 coffee houses spread across the nation, each telling the tale of India’s colonial past, its tryst with independence, and the subsequent shaping of its socio-political landscape.
The Roots of Indian Coffee Culture
Coffee, introduced to India by Indians in the 16th century, saw the concept of coffee houses gaining popularity in the 18th century in Madras and Calcutta. However, these establishments were primarily European enclaves, barring Indians entry due to the racial policies of the British rulers. The late 1890s witnessed the seed of an idea that would grow into the Indian Coffee House chain, a space welcoming to all Indians.
Birth of the Indian Coffee House
The first outlet, named ‘India Coffee House’, was inaugurated in Churchgate, Bombay in 1936, under the aegis of the Coffee Cess Committee and operated by the Indian Coffee Board. By the 1940s, there were nearly 50 such houses across British India. The partition saw Pakistan inheriting some of these coffee houses, continuing the legacy. However, in the mid-1950s, the Indian Coffee Board’s policy shift led to closures, sparking a movement led by communist leader A. K. Gopalan. This movement birthed the worker-led co-operatives that took over, rebranding the network as the Indian Coffee House in 1957.
A Democratic Management
Run by 13 co-operative societies, the Indian Coffee House’s management is a testament to democratic principles, with committees elected from among the employees. These societies are united under the All India Coffee Workers’ Co-operative Societies Federation, ensuring the legacy continues with the same ethos of worker empowerment.
A Cultural and Intellectual Hub
From Kerala to West Bengal, each state’s Indian Coffee House has its unique flavor. Kerala’s outlets, famous for incorporating beetroot in their dishes, to the intellectually charged atmosphere of Kolkata’s College Street branch, these coffee houses have been central to fostering discussions, art, literature, and political dialogues. The College Street branch, in particular, has been a rendezvous for notable personalities and movements, immortalized in the song “Coffee House-er Sei Adda-ta” by Manna Dey.
Challenges and Resilience
Despite challenges, including the closure of the iconic M.G. Road branch in Bangalore, the Indian Coffee House has shown resilience, finding new homes and continuing to serve its loyal patrons. Its presence in educational institutions and the opening of new branches reflect an adaptability that honors its rich legacy while embracing the future.
Conclusion
The Indian Coffee House is more than a café; it’s a microcosm of India’s struggle, independence, and ongoing dialogue on culture, politics, and society. It stands as a testament to the power of cooperative movements and the enduring spirit of community and inclusivity.
